Reflections and Nightmares- Irene A Waters (writer and memoirist)

© irene waters 2014

My regular challenge setters are on the same wave length as the weekly challenge setters as for the last two weeks I have posted for these challenges the subject of the challenge. only days before the weekly photo challenge is set. Therefore for my entry this week I have decided to show summer-lovin in Greenland.

August 20th, a date at the end of summer, was when I chose to visit Kulusuk. My only disappointment with this date was that dog sled trip’s were an impossibility due to the summer thaws. One day I plan to go back early Spring to have this experience but I learnt on my summer jaunt – take plenty of clothes. My short time in Greenland I believe affected my body in such a way that I haven’t felt the cold since.

We arrived in miserable conditions. The wind whipped around us and my three layers plus parka did little to stop the wind which had a chill factor to minus nine degrees: and this was summer! At least it wasn’t raining. The gale-like conditions put an end to the sea transport we had expected to take to our destination Kulusuk. We could walk the one and a half miles or stay at the airport hotel. I chose to walk.

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The walk was rough, over predominantly rocky arctic tundra covered with a light layer of moss-like grass. Between the crevices arctic flowers and glacial buttercups poked their heads. We followed a track which allowed uninterrupted views of the blue water of the bay and the pristine white, occasionally blue icebergs. The rocky mountain rose steeply to the side of the track. We passed a cemetery but most of the small white crosses were dotted beside the track and up the hillside. Summer is the only time burial can take occur.

© irene waters 2014

“Not enough dirt to have them all in one place so we bury them where we can dig a hole” the guide told me. We began our descent into the town of blue and rust red buildings, which we could now see nestled on the bay, protected from the elements by the mountain behind. We were traversing glaciers and fording streams which gently babbled over the worn rocks which lined its base and it was not long before my shoes were wet through. I hadn’t anticipated this cross-country walk and had worn ordinary sneakers with thick socks. Bones aching, I trudged on.

© irene waters 2014

The township we reached was enough to remove all thoughts of my own condition. There were probably no more than twenty houses visible, built on rocky hillocks in an arc around the bay and central square. In the square was a partially devoured whale carcass.

© irene waters 2014

“It was caught three days ago. Everybody comes down here for dinner. Another night then the dogs will get the rest” the guide said. Clearly no refrigeration was needed and as the whale is eaten raw, no cooking facilities were needed either. The dogs were in evidence with at least two huskies chained outside every residence.

“Don’t go near the dogs. They’re working dogs, not pets. You’ll be savaged if you go too close.” There was no danger of that as the snarling, skinny animals were in no way inviting. It became clear that transport in summer was difficult as there were few roads; boats and walking were the only alternatives.  In winter, however, with a good coverage of snow, the dog sleds would provide a good means of getting about.

© irene waters 2014

The Inuit people in Kulusuk, live a traditional lifestyle of hunting and fishing. This was in evidence, despite the bad weather, as we saw numerous kayaks in the bay occupied by sole plump, brown, weather-beaten faced men, harpoon in hand ready to catch the cod, halibut and salmon which were abundant.

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Although my time there was brief it was an unforgettable glimpse into a summer island life so very different from the tropical, palm tree swaying islands I had previously visited on my side of the world.

© irene waters 2014

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