© irene waters 2014
My regular challenge setters are on the same wave length as the weekly challenge setters as for the last two weeks I have posted for these challenges the subject of the challenge. only days before the weekly photo challenge is set. Therefore for my entry this week I have decided to show summer-lovin in Greenland.
August 20th, a date at the end of summer, was when I chose to visit Kulusuk. My only disappointment with this date was that dog sled trip’s were an impossibility due to the summer thaws. One day I plan to go back early Spring to have this experience but I learnt on my summer jaunt – take plenty of clothes. My short time in Greenland I believe affected my body in such a way that I haven’t felt the cold since.
We arrived in miserable conditions. The wind whipped around us and my three layers plus parka did little to stop the wind which had a chill factor to minus nine degrees: and this was summer! At least it wasn’t raining. The gale-like conditions put an end to the sea transport we had expected to take to our destination Kulusuk. We could walk the one and a half miles or stay at the airport hotel. I chose to walk.
The walk was rough, over predominantly rocky arctic tundra covered with a light layer of moss-like grass. Between the crevices arctic flowers and glacial buttercups poked their heads. We followed a track which allowed uninterrupted views of the blue water of the bay and the pristine white, occasionally blue icebergs. The rocky mountain rose steeply to the side of the track. We passed a cemetery but most of the small white crosses were dotted beside the track and up the hillside. Summer is the only time burial can take occur.
© irene waters 2014
“Not enough dirt to have them all in one place so we bury them where we can dig a hole” the guide told me. We began our descent into the town of blue and rust red buildings, which we could now see nestled on the bay, protected from the elements by the mountain behind. We were traversing glaciers and fording streams which gently babbled over the worn rocks which lined its base and it was not long before my shoes were wet through. I hadn’t anticipated this cross-country walk and had worn ordinary sneakers with thick socks. Bones aching, I trudged on.
© irene waters 2014
The township we reached was enough to remove all thoughts of my own condition. There were probably no more than twenty houses visible, built on rocky hillocks in an arc around the bay and central square. In the square was a partially devoured whale carcass.
© irene waters 2014
“It was caught three days ago. Everybody comes down here for dinner. Another night then the dogs will get the rest” the guide said. Clearly no refrigeration was needed and as the whale is eaten raw, no cooking facilities were needed either. The dogs were in evidence with at least two huskies chained outside every residence.
“Don’t go near the dogs. They’re working dogs, not pets. You’ll be savaged if you go too close.” There was no danger of that as the snarling, skinny animals were in no way inviting. It became clear that transport in summer was difficult as there were few roads; boats and walking were the only alternatives. In winter, however, with a good coverage of snow, the dog sleds would provide a good means of getting about.
© irene waters 2014
The Inuit people in Kulusuk, live a traditional lifestyle of hunting and fishing. This was in evidence, despite the bad weather, as we saw numerous kayaks in the bay occupied by sole plump, brown, weather-beaten faced men, harpoon in hand ready to catch the cod, halibut and salmon which were abundant.
Although my time there was brief it was an unforgettable glimpse into a summer island life so very different from the tropical, palm tree swaying islands I had previously visited on my side of the world.
© irene waters 2014
https://dailypost.wordpress.com/dp_photo_challenge/summer-lovin/
Reflections and Nightmares- Irene A Waters (writer and memoirist) 
Amazing: you don’t bother with Iceland, but go the whole hog, and to Greenland – the coldest of them all ! I have to say that the thought of eat frozen raw whalemeat …
Fascinatin stuff, Irene !
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Thanks M-R. but I did go to Iceland also. Some tales I have from there that’s for sure……. 🙂
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Iceland is TRENDY, Irene. All the best people pop up there to swan in those heated pools. Certainly, the cast of “The Eagle” caught some very bad people in Iceland. [grin]
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Have to admit the Eagle took a bypass around me but I did see The Secret Life of Walter Mitty which was partly filmed in Iceland. My husband agreed after seeing the film that yes he could be persuaded to visit Iceland with me (if he could ever be persuaded to do the long haul flight again.) At least I’m half way there. 🙂
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You’ll win in the end.
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No other word than fascinating. Thank you for the insight. Your walk was memorable enough. Not sure I’ve added it to my bucket list though…
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It was probably only slightly colder than your trips to Glencoe. It gets you in.
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Too true. It can be a mite parky.
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Very nice and interesting post Irene. Thanks for sharing 😉
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Thanks Irene. It was a pleasure and I had the joy of remembering. 🙂
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Nicely done.
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Thank you. Much appreciate your comment. Cheers Irene
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Thanks for the tour! Raw whale? Not sure I would find that tasty. Did you get a chance to learn about the Inuit? I highly recommend the museum at the University of Alaska in Fairbanks: it has the best presentations of the history and culture of the three peoples that settled early in that region. Loved the contrast with the last photo – I think I’s opt to spend my vacation there!
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We learnt a little about the Innuit but nowhere near as much as it sounds I would learn from the museum in Alaska. One day……..
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Honestly one of the most fascinating posts I’ve come across – there’s so much I hadn’t known or considered in here, things we take for granted like enough dirt to bury people and having to wait until the summer.
Your description of the eating of the whale carcass is also other worldly to me so I love the contrast with the tropical beach!
Lisa 🙂
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I chose to go rather than go to Europe as all my friends were doing at the time because I felt that it would be such a different world and therefore a totally different culture and lifestyle to any I had as yet come across. Boy was I right. It was an experience that I will never forget and as it was some time ago it has probably changed dramatically as the world gets smaller. Cheers Irene 🙂
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What a fabulous glimpse! I have Baffin Island on my list of places to visit and so far have only been there through the gaze and stories of others. It seems a similar place. Perhaps we should meet up there one day!
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Yes I think it would be. Perhaps one day….
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